Superfatting: Some people like excess fat in recipes. For this I recommend 2-4 T. castor oil added when the soap traces. Castor oil is emolient and contributes to soap lather. Adding castor oil after tracing along with 1 T. essentail oil also seems to help retain the soap fragrance. To superfat with other fats: You can subtract about .2 oz. lye from one lb. batches of soap recipes which allows excess fat to remain.
Blender Soap: 1)Use the recipes as described in "Soap Recipes", one lb. batches only. 2) Use liquid fat at room temperature. Heat solid fats only until melted. 3) Dissolve the lye in cold water and wait until the mixture turns clear. 4)Put all ingredients into the blender (lye/water, fragrance, everything) 5)Lock the blender in position, **secure the cover** and process at the lowest speed. 6) Stop the blender and check the soap often to watch for a thin-trace stage. When you stop the blender, wait a few seconds before removing the cover. Sometimes the soap "burps" when it stops (as a large amount of trapped air comes to the top). 7)At the thin trace stage, stop the blender. Stir the soap to check for tracing and to allow bubbles to escape. Pour the soap into individual molds. That's all ther is to it.
Now what are the advantages of blender soap? There are many! First of all, no thermometers! You're going to experience very short tracing times. Soap that requires a 30-to-45 minutes tracing time by the "cold-stir" method can trace in 30 seconds in the blender! (Soap that takes 2 days to trace can trace within 15-20 minutes in the blender.) Tracing times are so short, that I don't recommend you use cold-stir tracing times shorter than 30 minutes.The texture of blender soap is more opaque and smoother textured. You'll also discover less problems with separation. The only shortcoming is that the process can produce bubbles in the mixture. That's why it's important to pour the soap into individual bar molds at the thin-trace stage. Stop the blender and stir the soap. The soap should be thin enough so that bubbles can escape the mixture and come to the top of the soap. Hope you enjoyu this new technique and we should all be grateful to Ms. Joyce Chance for sharing it with us!--I am! Best regards, EWhiteVHP@aol.com
Source: Elaine White's website
Note: Soap is "made" with lye, but soap doesn't "contain" lye. Lye reacts with fats, creating roughly 3 molecules soap and 1 molecule glycerin The lye is no longer present--only great soap and glycerin.
These instructions are based on a book: "SOAP RECIPES: SEVENTY TRIED-AND-TRUE WAYS TO MAKE MODERN SOAP WITH HERBS, BEESWAX AND VEGETABLE OILS", by Elaine C. White International Standard Book Number 0-9637539-5-9 The book is available from bookstores and from: Valley Hills Press 1864 Ridgeland Drive Starkville MS 39759 USA $23.95 US funds includes price and air shipping to US and other countries 1-800-323-7102 Visa/Master Cards accepted Toll-free number good in AUS only, other countries call 601-323-7100 (This is a voice line and fax) Valley Hills Press specializes in craft how-to information regarding honey and beeswax products. They will send a free brochure about this book and other products: MS Beekeepers Honey Cookbook, soapmaking kit, mead/honey wine kit, "Super Formulas" (book tells how to make 360 useful products that contain honey and beeswax) etc. Free brochure, just ask.