Cocoa Butter Soap: Cocoa butter is a nutrient and an emollient. Adding it to your soap makes the soap superfatted. It comes in 8 oz bars that are divided into 1 oz fingers. Melt two fingers in a double boiler or in a hot water batch. Do not overheat. Add it to your soap pot just prior to pouring the soap into molds. Mix well.
Solid Shampoo Bar: A fine shampoo bar, it eliminates the need for a conditioner. Squeeze the juice of a lemon into a bottle and add water to it for your final rinse. This soap will not wash away natural oils.
24 oz coconut oil 38 oz olive oil 24 oz castor oil 12 oz lye 32 oz water
Superfatted Olive Oil: You can add two extra ounces of olive oil to any recipe prior to pouring the soap into molds. The 2 oz should be mixed in well; they will not saponify but will blend into newly formed soap, making a rich and creamy product. This soap could be used as a makeup remover.
Cold Cream Soap: Add 2 oz of any cold cream to your soap prior to pouring the soap into molds. This addition in particular must be mixed in very well. Cold Cream Soap will soften the skin and remove imbedded deposits of dirt.
Butter Enriched Soap: Use any recipe that has coconut oil in it and replace a quarter of the amount coconut oil with butter when you weigh in your fats. Though butter may reduce the foaming power of your soap, it makes a very milk, pleasing bar.
Health Bar: If your interest is in health foods and vitamins, try a Health Bar. Add wheat germ oil or your favorite vitamin. Wheat germ oil superfats a soap. Vitamin E is a mild deodorizer. Other vitamins would be considered nutrients. Add 2 oz (liquid) prior to pouring. Mix well.
Milk and Honey Soap: Mix together 1 oz each of powdered milk and honey. Add to your soap prior to pouring, and mix well.
Rosewater Soap: When preparing the lye solution, add 4 ox of rosewater and mix. Rosewater is dilute and its scent won't hold; however, you should get its properties which are astringent. For scent, add 3/4 to 1 oz of essential oils - rose and perhaps a woody note, another floral and an animal essence to sophisticate it.
Almond Meal Soap: Almond meal is a good degreaser. It is ever so gently abrasive and good at removing imbedded dirt from pores. Use and ounce of it in the Castile Soap if you have oily skin. Use any of the other soaps if oilness is not a problem. Oatmeal and cornmeal can be used, too; and pumice, but only as a hand cleanser. Don't use sand. Add prior to pouring in the molds, and mix well.
Superfatted Lanolin Soap: Add 2 oz of anhydrous (water-free) deodorized lanolin to your soap prior to pouring it in the molds. Deodorized lanolin is important because otherwise the oil smells just like the sheep from whose wool it comes. If you have trouble finding it at your drugstore, try a chemical supply house. Lanolin has all the characteristics of a good night cream. Melt it in a double boiler and keep it warm.
Petroleum Dandruff Shampoo Bar: Try an ounce each of deodorized kerosene and castor oil, premixed. Add to your soap and stir well prior to pouring. Rinse with lemon water.
Dry Hair Shampoo Bar: Add to the Vegetable Soap an ounce and a half each of glycerin and castor oil, premixed, prior to pouring. Rinse with lemon water.
Avocado Soap: Using the Castile Soap recipe, replace 6 oz of olive oil with avocado oil when weighing the fats. This one is for sensitive skins.
Source: "Soap: Making It, Enjoying It" by Ann Bramson