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Title: Morel Mushroom Sauce
Categories: Sauce Check
Yield: 1 Batch

3/4lbFresh morel mushrooms or
3ozDried morel mushrooms soaked in
3cBoiling water
2tbButter
3/4cBeef stock (opt)
1/4cBrandy
3/4cHeavy cream
2tbGlace de viande (opt)
2tbLemon juice
  Salt and pepper to taste

1. Preheat oven to 400F. If using dried morels, put them in a bowl and cover with the boiling water. Cover and let soak until soft, about 30 minutes. Rub the morels in the soaking water to release any grit, then transfer them to a plate. Let the soaking liquid settle for a few minutes, then carefully pour it into a saucepan, leaving the grit behind. Boil the liquid until reduced to 1 cup, 7-8 minutes.

2. melt 1 tbs of the butter in a large skillet over moderate heat. Add the fresh morels to the pan and cook until they release their juices. Pour the juices into a glass measure and add enough beef stock to equal 1 cup.

3. Add the remaining tbs butter to the pan and cook the fresh morels over high heat until slightly crisped, about 4 minutes. Alternatively, saut the reconstituted morels in the full 2 tbs butter.

4. Slowly pour the brandy into the pan and ignite carefully; swirl the pan until the flames subside. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the morels to a plate. Return the skillet to the heat and add the reserved morel liquid, the cream, glace de viande, and 1 tbs of the lemon juice. Boil until slightly thickened, 2-3 minutes. Season with salt and pepper and remove from the heat.

The sauce can be prepared to this point up to 1 day ahead. Cover and refrigerate the sauce and morels separately.

5. Bring the sauce to a simmer over moderate heat. Stir in the morels*. Season with the remaining 1 tbs lemon juice and salt and pepper.

Serve over beef tenderloin, steak or other meats.

* Add any accumulated meat juices to the sauce.

Note: Glace de viande is a highly concentrated meat stock. It is available frozen in many specialty shops and by mail from D'Artagnan 1-800-327-8246.

Food and Wine April 1995

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