Title: Step-by-Step Soapmaking Instructions 2
Categories: Soap *
Yield: 1 Batch

CONTINUED

10. Once the oils are evenly distributed, quickly pour the soap into the mold. If you have periodically incorporated the soap from the sides of the pan for an even soap mixture, the entire pan - bottom and sides - can now be scraped clean with a spatula. If a residue has formed from an irregular scraping down of the sides of the pan, leave any crumbly pieces behind. The mixture should be smooth, with no lumps and a uniform texture and color. Watery or oily puddles signal a poorly mixed solution. Try to pour evenly from one end of the mold to the other for level, uniform bars. If you see a change in texture, stop pouring. A last bit of soap mixture in the bottom of the pan taht is watery and uneven indicates that your stirring process was not quite complete. Do not pollute the rest of your batch by adding this unsaponified portion. If your first attemp at pouring into the mold isn't quick enough and the mixture begins to set unevenly, use a spatula to spread it out to the corners. Keep in mind that the soap bars can be trimmed smooth once they are ready to be cut. When you follow this recipe carefully, you are unlikely to encounter this problem.

11. Cover the filled mold with another frame, a piece of plywood, or a piece of heavy cardboard; cover with a blanket or two. Leave undisturbed for 18 to 24 hours. Highly unsaturated soap formulas are best left for 24 hours; highly saturated soap formulas harden quickly (especially those with beeswax or cocoa butter) and can be opened sooner for easier cutting. The curing period is important, as the insulation allows the soap to heat up and saponify further.

12. Uncover the mold and set it away from drafts and cold temperatures for 1 to 7 days, or until the soap is firm enough to cut. Don't wait until it's rock hard.

13. Using a ruler and a paring knife, lightly mark the slab into bars, being careful not to cut through. Once the bar lines look straight and uniform, cut lengthwise and crosswise through to the bottom of the mold. Holding the sides of the waxed paper, lift the entire layer of soap out of the mold. Stand the block of soap on a table on one of its short ends and carefully peel the waxed paper downward toward the table, one row of soap at a time, removing the exposed bars before peeling down to the next row. Slice a 1/16" of the top of each bar to remove any powdery residue, if necessary.

14. Lay the soaps, in a single layer, on plaing brown paper grocery bags, or wicker or rattan place mats. Do not use bags imprinted with ink, as the bars are still alkaline and will pick up the dye. Set the soaps in a dry, well-ventilated room, protected from temperature extremes.

15. Allow the soaps to cure for 3 to 4 weeks, turning them over once to fully expose the other sides. This is an important period, because the soaps become dryer, harder, and milder. Wrap as you like, preferably in a breathable material.

Source: "The Soapmaker's Companion" by Susan Miller Cavitch

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